Toilet Repair Near Me

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Toilet Repair Services Near Rochester, New York

Arnett, Lincoln Park, Otis, West Brighton, Cobbs Hill, Twelve Corners, Brighton, Whipple Park, Uptonville, Crittenden

When things go wrong with your home toilet, it could be one of the most typical– and disturbing– plumbing problems you might encounter in your home. Whether it is overflowing or running continually, a toilet repair is an problem you can not put aside.

It would be best if you always try and keep them in good working order as they are among the most significant fixtures in a plumbing system. We don’t offer them much thought till something goes wrong and they quit working.

The feared clogged-up toilet is among property owners’ most typical domestic challenges. Many will try to fix the problem, only to find that the fix did not work or that the issue reappeared.

When the problem requires more than just a plunger service, it’s best to call a local plumber near me for all toilet repair or installation needs. With years of experience servicing Monroe County, New York locations, our local plumbing expert team can handle toilet repair fast and effectively, and at a reasonable cost.

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Most Common Problems with Toilets in Homes

Plenty of toilet repairs, installations, and services are best left for the pros to deal with. However, not all services require emergency plumbing services.

Let us to go through a few of the typical issues encountered by customers who have contacted us for ideas on how to deal with them:

Moaning noises:

If you hear groaning noises from a toilet, it could be due to a rise in water pressure, which makes a valve shudder or shake.

Random or constant flushing:

Either of these two issues will potentially trigger the unit to flush and begin filling on its own:

the refill tube is too long, or
a leaking flapper

This flushing at random leads to water damage and waste, leading to a higher monthly water service bill.

Compound flushing:

Perhaps you only flush once; however, the toilet flushes two times or even 3 times. A high water level is typically the source of this problem. Changing the float control within the tank will usually fix this issue.

Water dripping into the bowl, or “Phantom Flushes”:

A sluggish leak from the tank into the bowl is the source of the issue here. A malfunctioning flapper or flapper seat is unquestionably to blame.

Changing a worn or damaged flapper is the best solution to avoid plumbing issues. Empty the water tank, clean and check the seat, then replace the flapper.

Slow flushes:

A low water level or the lift chain that connects the flush handle and the flapper valve causes a toilet only to flush partially. Loosen the lift chain to let the flapper settle down correctly inside the bowl.

Base leakages:

The gasket made of wax between the drain pipeline at the base of the unit must be replaced if it leaks when flushed. This process requires an expert plumbing service.

Not flushing totally:

Check if the lift chain has any slack, and make adjustments as needed.
Check for a correct water level in the tank.
After that, ensure that the flapper is fitted correctly and is the best size and style for the unit.

The Bowl Empties Slow:

Blocked holes under the bowl’s surface area are the most typical cause of a slow-emptying bowl, also referred to as a poor flush. To clean any clutter, gently jab each flush opening with a curved piece of wire.

If you are still unable to resolve these issues, it will be best to contact a local plumber near me.

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Pro Plumbing Service Tips for Repairing Common Toilet Problem Yourself

A toilet consists of two major parts: the bowl unit, which rests on the floor, and the upper tank which holds the water. The bowl is a solid drain piece of the fixture made from porcelain with no moving parts.

Few repairs involve the bowl, with a few exceptions. On the other hand, the tank is where two important valves exist and the handle for flushing. The tank is where much of the toilet repairs happen.

You will be surprised to learn that most issues are reasonably easy to fix without the need to call an emergency plumber.

Running Toilet Repair Service:

If you’ve tried a new flapper for a running toilet and it still runs, don’t give up hope. Here’s a solution that ensures it works.

Few home nuisances are somewhat as irritating as the noise of continuously running water. If you hear filling up too often, or if you hear the constant hiss of running water, the flapper in the unit might be leaking.

The flapper (also known as the “flush valve seal”) is the plug that falls against the drainpipe opening (flush valve drainpipe seat) on the bottom of the tank. It holds water till the next time you flush. When flappers or flush valve seats wear, water leaks out, creating the valve to open and refill the tank.

Step 1: Changing Flapper:

First, remove the old flapper and bring it with you to the hardware store or home center to get a similar one.

Note: Occasionally, a new flapper does not fix the issue. If you have tried changing the flapper, but it still runs, the flush valve seat is probably rough or pitted.

You can change the complete flush flapper valve; however, it is not an easy job, and it may require the experience of a plumber near Rochester, New York.

Step 2: Flapper Kit with Flush Seat Repairing:

If changing the flapper alone didn’t work, search for a flapper kit with a flush seat repair.

Note: You want to purchase a Flush valve repair kit. The kit has a flapper and matching seat that you adhere to the damaged seat with the adhesive provided.

First, shut the water supply to the toilet.
Hold the flapper open while flushing to allow the remaining water to drain from the tank.
Make use of a sponge to wipe out the water that stays entirely.
Follow the included instructions to set up the brand-new flapper valve seat.
- Pro tip: If the unit uses 3.5 gallons or less of water per flush, you will need a kit that includes a plastic cup to change the flapper’s time to remain open. If your unit utilizes more than this, get rid of the timing cup.
  Set up the brand-new flapper.
With the flapper down, adjust the chain length, so it’s somewhat relaxed.
Turn on the water to check the flush.

Note: You may need to fiddle with the chain length-size to get the flapper working correctly.

When finished, remove the excess chain to prevent it from getting stuck under the flapper.

Toilet Repair Services: Broken Handle

If shaking the handle does not stop your toilet from running, any of these straightforward repairs probably will.

The handle is a primary device– only a few things can malfunction and need to be repaired. The solution is easier than you think.

Step 1: Loose Handle:

If the handle is loose, the installation of a new one is fairly easy. Tighten up the nut and washer inside the tank with a pair of pliers without over-tighten it; you could strip the threads or, even worse, damage the porcelain tank.

If the handle sticks in the down flush position, it may not be installed properly. Loosen up the nut washer, reposition the handle to align with the top of the tank, and re-tighten the nut.

Step 2: Stripped Threads:

If the nut does not tighten up or keeps coming loose, it’s a sign that the nut threads are stripped. For a quick fix, cover the threads on the handle screw with “plumber’s tape” or electrical tape.

Then, move the washer and nut back on and tighten up the nut. It is often best to replace the handle with a brand-new one if the threads are too damaged or damaged.

Step 3: Handle Arm:

Look into the handle arm for issues, splits, or breaks.
If there are issues, change the complete handle and the arm assembly.
- Pro tip: Remember where your handle mounts on the tank before purchasing a replacement handle. There are numerous kinds: front mount left, front mount right, front mount universal, and side mount.

Step 4: The Chain:

Suppose the handle appears to be running correctly, yet the toilet still does not flush. In that case, the chain connecting the handle arm to the flapper could be detached or damaged.

- Pro Tip: Before working on the chain, empty the tank, shut off the water valve, and pull up the flapper, letting the water to drain.

If the chain detaches from the handle arm, reconnect the chain from the flapper into the holes on the handle arm, using the chain hook.
Leave a little slack in the chain.
If the chain detaches from the flapper, reconnect the chain to the flapper.
If the chain or the flapper is defective, change it.

Shopping Tips for Toilets

Sick of your old, leaking, water hog of a toilet and wish to get a new one? A toilet replacement is not a major job and today you’ll find water-efficient units with a variety of options. Use the following ideas for the next time you go shopping for a new unit.

Insulated tank:

If summer seasons are moist where you live, and you don’t have A/C, you’ve probably spotted “sweating moisture” quite a bit on the side of the unit. Condensation forming on the outside of a toilet can drip down, making a water mess and even rotting your floor.

Today, most toilets are made available with insulated tanks to avoid condensation issues. Consider this alternative if you have “sweating” issues.

Bowl height:

Bowl height is the distance from the floor to the top of the bowl’s rim– the typical height is 14 to 15 inches. Yet today, you’ll find units 16 to 18 inches high, often called “comfort level” “ADA height” or something similar.

The added heights available make getting on and off much more accessible and comfortable for many people, especially aging individuals. Designs for kids with heights of 10 to 14 inches are also available.

One-piece vs. two-piece:

A two-piece (a separate tank and bowl) is the most common style in homes. Yet one-piece styles are offered. Two-piece styles are usually less expensive; one-piece styles often have shorter tank and are much easier to clean up.

One-piece styles are the choice of many homeowners because of their smooth, streamlined appeal.

Cost:

When it pertains to toilets, expensive does not instantly suggest better efficiency. Many of the best models we have tested were reasonably cost-effective and performed well. In comparison, more expensive ones were only marginally efficient.

Color:

Fashion is fickle. Stick with a white or off-white color style to avoid being stuck to a color you’ll resent a few years later on.

Flush-handle location:

If you have a large bathroom and have ample room above or beside your toilet, this perhaps isn’t all that crucial. Make sure to pick a style with a top handle or one opposite the wall if the room is limited.

Buying a proper style is very important, to spare yourself a return trip to the shop, so pay attention when choosing style options.

Rough-in:

The “rough-in” measurement is the distance between the flange screws that anchors the toilet bowl to the floor and the wall surface behind it. A twelve-inch “rough-in” is the most common measurement; nonetheless, in some older properties, you could have a 10-inch or even a 14-inch “rough-in.”

Tip: Make sure to measure your “rough-in” and always account for the thickness of your baseboard, paneling, or tile backing before purchasing the unit.

Bowl shape:

Many unit styles marketed today have either round-front bowls or elongated-front bowls.

Round-front bowls are good if the area is snug.
Elongated bowls have a more extended rim– as much as two-inch longer– and require more room.

On the plus side, elongated bowls are usually much more comfortable for adult use which helps increase health. Assess your supplier’s websites for bowl measurements, and measure your space before choosing the bowl shape.

Footprint:

If you install a new toilet with a smaller sized tank, you may need to paint the part of the wall surface covered by the old tank.

The same will apply if the old unit style had a large footprint on the floor, you might need to patch and repair the floor part surrounded by the footprint of the old unit. You may also need to change the entire floor before setting up a new unit.